“I had been thinking about taking off the veil for the past two years, but I was scared of people’s judgment. When you wear a hijab, it is not just about a veil: it is the way you dress, it is your actions; it feels like you are representing a religion with everything you do.”...
Category: Egypt
A Walking Tour into the Legends of Downtown Cairo
One autumn Friday morning, I dove into Egypt’s urban legends joining a newly inaugurated walking tour of downtown Cairo set in place by a development company called Al Ismaleya. From Art-Deco icons to historical cinemas, we set off to discover the stories woven by the area’s stimulating streets. We are standing at the foot of a building set...
A Walk With Keizer: The Remains Of Revolutionary Graffiti
Valentina Primo walks the streets of Cairo with enigmatic graffiti artist Keizer, as he discovers what survived of his revolutionary stencils, and crafts an exclusive new piece for CairoScene, while exploring what there is left to say once the revolution’s spirit has faded away. Nov 27,2015 Keizer is alert, a sense of caution guiding his every tread....
Obesity and Body Shaming in Egypt
A staggering 70% of the adult population is obese in Egypt. Publicly shamed, ill-advised, and often unable to exercise in private or public spaces, Egyptians seldom find a solution to a condition that can lead to a wide array of chronic diseases. Nov 12,2015 Bassant El Qassem walks the streets of Haram, her long black 3ebaya swinging...
Dancing where dancer is a four-letter-word
Magda walks the unpaved streets of Tucuman in Argentina’s north, swirling the stick around as she makes her way to dance school. It’s 1993, and she is only 10. Her dreams have the tinkling sound of her hip scarf and ripple like the Nile. She knows all the songs by heart, but she cannot understand...
Waiting for the Boat: Abou Adnan and His Failed Attempt to Get to Italy
The room was dark. As he tried to keep his children away from the cockroaches leaking through from the kitchen, Abou Adnan* looked at the door. A shaft of light was slowly appearing as it opened, offering some relief from the musty air impregnating the apartment. It was yet another family trying to squeeze in. About...
The Whales Hidden For Centuries In Egypt’s Desert
Hidden at the heart of the Sahara desert in Egypt, rare fossils of ancient whales uncover the history of Wadi Al-Hitan, a remote valley located 150 kilometers southwest of Cairo. Also known as the Valley of Whales, the site offers a unique opportunity to embark on a journey through the history of evolution. The valley is located within the boundaries...
“Either you reach Europe or you die”: one woman’s journey inside a refugee boat
02 September, 2015 In August 2015, as hundreds of refugees were found dead on the European shores, I met a Syrian woman who had embarked in one of the deadly boats and failed in the attempt. Her story is one of the most heartbreaking tales I ever heard. But it’s also a lesson of strength, resilience, and dignity. She wanted...
In Pictures: A Day In Cairo’s Khan El Khalili Market
It’s a hot late-summer Friday and Cairo’s historic market, Khan el-Khalili, feels like a peaceful haven among the noisy urban hustle. The souq, built in 1382 by Emir Djaharks el-Khalili in the heart of the city, is surrounded by some of the most exquisite examples of Islamic architecture: 13th century madrasas (schools), ancient mosques, and Ottoman-era buildings draw...
The Zapp family: 15 years travelling the world in a vintage car
It’s 4pm. The sun is merciless and the sand itches, but Herman Zapp and his family do not spare a minute. It’s been seven hours since they arrived to the pyramids and they keep exploring them throughout, inside and around. Suddenly, Herman stops. He leaves his backpack on the floor, opens his arms wide and...